It’s not even cited in this list of desirable (or un-) US cities, but it’s totally in my top 4, along with NYC, SF and Seattle. I’m sure it’s humid as hell for 10 months out of the year and you’d never find a decent job anyplace, but I could totally live there, especially in my eccentric dotage.
All we did was eat. I was there with my boyfriend for his sister’s wedding, and coming less than a week after I resumed eating solid foods post-cleanse, I was probably devouring about 10,000 calories a day. This can be attributed to my own voracious appetite as well as to the fact that everything in New Orleans has a butter sauce and andouille sausage, even things like pralines or Vitamin Water.
We ate at Mother’s, on Tchopitoulas. Is that not the greatest name for a street, ever? It’s where the waitresses address a big party as “my babies” and where I had a “Ralph,” which is a po boy with debris (that is, the meat that falls into the gravy) and cheese. It was an appropriately-named sandwich because the theme of the weekend was that I ate and drank until I wanted to vomit, waited for the sensation to pass, and then resumed. I ate at least a dozen Hubig’s Pies, because Elliott’s sister married into the family that makes them. I had Gumbo Ya Ya and seafood gumbo, fried alligator, chicory cafe au lait and beignets from Cafe du Monde–you can’t really order anything else there; and Bananas Foster, which I didn’t even know was specifically Cajun. I don’t even like bananas, but it was amazing. And of course, dirty rice, crawfish etouffe and cheese grits. The rehearsal dinner was at Broussard’s; we never made it to Cochon, one of the best new restaurants in the US, according to Frank Bruni. Broussard’s was really good even if they directed us from cocktail hour into the dining room by ringing a bell. It’s the South; being totally passive-aggressive is just the way it is.
I had always assumed there were be endless mysteries to Cajun cooking, mostly unpronounceable things dervied from bastardized 18th century French which cannot be obtained anywhere else, but actually, it’s the same six things repurposed over and over until infinite deliciousness has been achieved. Although I’m sure there are amazing things from the bayou deemed too vulgar to be served at a fancy wedding.
There was no king cake. What’s better than the ritualized cannibalism of transubstantiation at a Catholic Mass? Answer: actually eating baby Jesus.
These little sewer caps were everywhere in the Quarter. I love the little things about a city that are irrelevant except in the aggregate, as facets of what makes it the city that it is, and which you might never know about unless you went there. Kind of like Sutro Tower in S.F. or coffee cups with that tacky “Greek” typeface in NYC bodegas.
Just because it’s not Mardi Gras yet doesn’t mean there can’t be ambient terrifying objects strewn about. It reminds me of the bizarre art direction for Fantasia in The Neverending Story II: Jonathan Brandis Loses His Marbles. These harlequins-on-a-pike were on St. Charles Ave. I took the streetcar that runs down it to the wedding. It had incandescent bulbs in it!
This was in the Warehouse District, upriver from the Quarter. I went through a brief moment, after visiting the Garden District, where I thought that maybe the Quarter was actually as gross as Cancun and nobody in their right mind would want to hang out there. Note: this was wrong.
The World’s Largest S. I love the windows. Against the palms, it’s just not Brutalism. It’s better. (This was on Canal St.)
This is the best misspellling ever, especially because the brain (or at least, my brain) reads the “-chic” as chic, as in “Le freak, c’est chic” after the first syllable. Who wants a Fuh-chic reading? You definitely want it read by the fattest, most toothless old Haitian woman you can find. Preferably one who cackles and disappears in a puff of smoke and metallic confetti. I didn’t go to Miss Cindy. I had mine done by Sharon and her ailing dog, Bagel. She didn’t get anything grossly wrong, but she was vague. Apparently ’09 is going to be a rough year for me.
I just enjoy this one. Faubourg Marigny, I think. Too blurry because I didn’t have a tripod, but fuck it, it gets the mood.
These are the backs of two chairs from the Carousel Bar in our hotel, the Monteleone. It revolves every fifteen minutes, which is fast enough to make some people a little ill. I loved it, though. I had two Pisco Sours. You can tell because the photo is totally not centered. This was the night of the wedding, when I ate more than I’d ever eaten, and had 4 Bullitts on the rocks, two gin-and-tonics, and three cups of coffee.
(We later had absinthe, but not here; it was absurdly expensive and not as amazing as elsewhere. Then we ate the worst pizza imaginable at a place that served watered-down alcoholic Slurpees. It was basically Ellio’s and had little evenly spaced holes in the bottom of the crust that revealed its origins in a maquiladora somewhere. Then we went in the hotel’s rooftop pool until a cleaning guy chased us out).
NOLA in a nutshell. Preferably a praline. Notice how her face is slightly blurry because her tits are so gigantic, the camera focused on them. Jesus Christ, I love New Orleans.